From Dhoti to Sherwani: How Indian Menswear Went from Drapes to Dapper

Today, most Indian men are seen wearing sharp, fitted suits, shirts, and trousers. On special occasions, traditional wear like kurtas and sherwanis is also popular. But Indian menswear didn't always look like this. It has evolved over thousands of years, with every historical period—Harappan, Vedic, Mauryan, Mughal, British, and post-independence—leaving its mark. Indian menswear isn't just fashion; it's a reflection of culture, history, and identity.

The earliest examples of Indian menswear come from the Harappan Civilisation, where the famous Priest-King sculpture is depicted wearing a shawl over one shoulder, a headband, and a lower garment resembling a dhoti. During this time, men are believed to have worn minimal upper-body clothing, partly due to the climate. Jewellery like necklaces, armlets, and bangles was also common. Clothing was practical, climate-friendly, and largely unstitched.

Then came the Vedic period, which provides some of the earliest textual evidence of clothing. Menswear during this time included three basic garments—Vasa (lower garment), Adhivasa (upper cloth), and Nivi (waist cloth). Another important accessory was the Ushnisha, a head covering that was also commonly worn. Some historians believe that traditions like the Ushnisha may have influenced later customs of covering the head during worship. Other additions included jewellery and kamarbands. Clothing was becoming more structured during this period while remaining largely unstitched.

Around 320 BCE, Mauryan influences brought greater emphasis on kamarbands, jewellery, and refined draping. However, the biggest Central Asian influence came during the Kushan period, driven partly by the growth of international trade. Stitched clothes became more common, and people began adopting new styles, including tunics, overcoats, and embroidered garments. Many artworks from this period even depict boots. Fine silk clothing was also prominent, thanks to trade along the Silk Route. During the Gupta period, garments such as dhotis, dupattas, and kanchukas were common, while early influences of the kurta could also be seen. Overall, clothing became richer and more decorative.

Persian influence had a significant impact on Indian fashion. Garments such as the jubbah, jama, and pyjama-like clothing became popular. Sheer garments were also worn in northern India. One interesting detail is that historical references note a difference in the fastening of some garments: Hindu men's garments often fastened on the right, while some garments associated with Islamic traditions fastened on the left. The exact reason behind this distinction remains uncertain.

Then came British rule, which changed the trajectory of Indian fashion. One might expect an instant transformation, but Indians were initially reluctant to embrace these changes. British fashion gradually influenced Indian menswear, beginning with small details and eventually contributing to Indo-Western styles. The angarkha, achkan, and sherwani evolved through a complex mix of Indian and foreign influences, including Persian and colonial-era styles. Tailoring and well-fitted clothing also gained popularity.

The Industrial Revolution contributed to the decline of traditional handmade textiles as British rule promoted machine-made goods and imported British fabrics. As a result, India's textile industry faced significant challenges. British fashion gained prominence, too. As the ruling class, the British became style icons for many Indians, and adopting their clothing became a symbol of education, prestige, and social status. Slowly, Western suits came to be seen as respectable, professional, and aspirational.

During the pre-independence era, patriotism and nationalist sentiment shaped how Indians dressed. The Swadeshi movement promoted khadi and Made-in-India clothing, encouraging people to boycott British goods and embrace indigenous textiles. However, this wasn't always easy, as khadi could be more expensive than mass-produced British textiles. Fashion thus became a form of struggle and resistance. Other politically significant styles, including the Nehru jacket and Gandhi topi, became symbols of national identity.

After independence, Indian menswear was heavily influenced by Bollywood actors, who often drew inspiration from Western fashion as well. From Raj Kapoor's simple charm to Amitabh Bachchan and Dharmendra's rugged styles in Sholay, cinema shaped how generations of Indian men dressed. Young audiences readily embraced these looks, giving rise to new fashion trends.

Coming to the present day, men are experimenting more than ever—whether it's pairing sneakers with a kurta or blending traditional garments with contemporary styles. Trends, celebrities, and social media continue to influence fashion, with many people experimenting with their looks while keeping up with changing style standards.

One thing is clear: Indian menswear has never stood still. It has evolved through trade, cultural exchanges, political movements, colonialism, and cinema. Yet, traditional garments continue to survive and thrive. Today's wardrobe is a living reflection of thousands of years of Indian fashion history.