The Forgotten Breads of India and the Histories They Carry
The history of Indian food is often told through its biryanis, curries, and sweets, but another story lies hidden in the breads baked in neighborhood ovens and eaten at everyday tables. From the soft girda of Kashmir to the flaky bakarkhani of Bengal, regional breads reflect how communities have adopted local ingredients, exchanged culinary techniques, and carried food traditions across borders.
These breads are more than just accompaniments to a meal; they are a reminder of the people, journeys, and history that have shaped regional identity.
In Kashmir, work begins early in the morning at the local bakeries, commonly known as kandur waans. Inside, the kandurs, or skilled bakers, prepare girda, round breads baked in clay tandoors. Because of their soft centers and slightly crispy edges, they are a popular choice for breakfast, often enjoyed with noon chai, a well-known local pink, salty tea.
However, girda holds a deeper significance beyond the breakfast table. These neighborhood bakeries serve as central hubs for people to converse, discuss community matters, and socialize with acquaintances. Going to buy fresh bread has become a part of the people's way of life, passed down through generations. The traditional way of making bread in Kashmir also reflects the ancient history of their connection with Central Asia, Afghanistan, and Persia.
Through various trade routes, goods, people, and new ideas entered this place, which in turn developed and transformed the way food is prepared. The very term "tandoor" comes from the Persian word "tanur," meaning a fire pit. Although the exact origin of Girda cannot be traced to a single event, this tradition of making bread in a tandoor clearly demonstrates how cross-cultural exchange can become integrated into our way of life.
In the east, the bakarkhani tells a unique story of the exchange of food and culinary traditions. Closely linked to Old Dhaka in modern-day Bangladesh, this thick and firm bread is connected to the culinary practices of the Mughal era and also has ties to the broader history of food in Bengal. Unlike the soft girda, the bakarkhani is thick with many flaky layers and is rich, made using flour, ghee, and sometimes milk, sugar, or spices. Its appearance and method of preparation distinguish it significantly from other everyday breads, and it reflects the history of culinary fusion in various regions.
There are different accounts regarding the origin of this bread. Some say it originated in Afghanistan, while others claim it is linked to the migration of people from various places during the Mughal era. In popular stories, it is also said that this name is linked to Aga Bakar Khan, an important person from Bengal. Although these various accounts differ, they all point to one truth: this way of preparing food did not just come into existence on its own.
When people move around in search of work, for political reasons, or to find new opportunities, they often take their cooking styles with them. Recipes change according to the ingredients available in other places and the preferences of the local residents, eventually becoming a part of the place where they live. The popularity of Bakarkhani in Old Dhaka clearly illustrates how a well-known item can evolve in different places and become synonymous with a specific location.
The history of Girda and Bakarkhani shows that migration is only one factor in the history of bread in India. Local farming practices and dietary habits also influence how people make bread.
In Rajasthan, khoba roti is a thick flatbread made from wheat flour with deep indentations. These indentations help the bread cook evenly and absorb ghee well, making it perfect for eating with delicious curries.
In Kerala, pathiri is primarily made from rice flour, which highlights the importance of rice in the local culture and diet.
These differences demonstrate how geography and agriculture influence culinary practices. The availability of different types of grains in each community, their methods of food preparation, and traditions inherited from ancestors have led to the emergence of various types of bread in different regions.
At the same time, people are able to spread to different places without abandoning their cultural identity and history. When people move their place of residence to a new city or another country, familiar foods often become an important connection to their home. Therefore, local bakeries can keep alive not just recipes, but also a sense of comfort and connection.
Across India, various types of bread are still being made and eaten, but the history of these breads is easily overlooked outside of their places of origin.
As eating habits change and larger bakeries grow, it becomes increasingly important to document traditional bread-making methods and the skills of those who make them. Preservation does not mean that traditional eating habits should not change, but rather that there should be an understanding of those who keep these things alive and the history behind their skills.
The history of bread-making across India is, in the end, a story of exchange and continued connection. Girda unites the people of Kashmir in a shared morning routine, while bakarkhani carries the traces of the exchange between the culinary worlds of Bengal and the creators of its bread-making traditions.
Other types of bread also showcase fresh produce from various places, methods of cooking and preparation, and social customs. These foods remind us that history does not exist only in old things, old books, or royal kitchens. In that case, it is found in the hands of the bread maker, in the warm places where bamboo shoots are boiled, and in the methods of preparing side dishes that have been passed down through generations.
To understand the history of a country, we often begin with the bread on its table.
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